David Tanis Market Cooking by Tanis David;

Author:Tanis, David;
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Artisan
Published: 2017-09-15T23:45:11+00:00

Eggplants

Eggplant is cooked and cherished throughout Asia, the Mediterranean, and the Middle East, and no wonder: it has wonderful versatility, whether miso-glazed, crumbed and fried, or smoked over hot embers and pounded to a creamy paste. It has long been admired by vegetarians, who are lured by its substantial “meaty” texture, its ability to both absorb and contribute flavor, its mushroom-like qualities. And many an erstwhile carnivore has subsisted on eggplant sandwiches, cutlets, and pasta sauces during times of scarcity or impoverishment.

At the height of the season, eggplants arrive at the market in all shapes, sizes, and hues. Some are pear-shaped, fat, shiny, and black; others are snakelike, a foot long and deep purple or shocking bright fuchsia. There are eggplant skins with magenta and white striations (one such variety is called Graffiti). Some are pale violet, some pale green, some mustard yellow. Some are truly egg-shaped and ivory white. And there are tiny round pumpkin-colored ones no bigger than an inch in diameter, used for curries or pickles.

The large purple-black generic eggplant stocked at most supermarkets will get the job done, but smaller ones will likely be sweeter and contain fewer seeds. In any case, with whatever type of eggplant you choose, unblemished, firm, and shiny is what you want; this signifies freshness.

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